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Precious Metal
Stamps
Most jewelry items made of precious metal are stamped with information about the purity level of the metal content. Generally the stamp is placed in an inconspicuous place on the item so it does not detract from the design. Stamps will usually be located on the inside of the band on a ring, on the post or basket setting on a pair of earrings, on the bail (the part that the chain slides through) on a pendant, and on the connecting ring or the clasp on a necklace or bracelet.
All jewelry stamps adhere to strict guidelines set by the Federal Trade Commission.
The table below lists the most common precious metal stamps, their alternative stamps or hallmarks, their purity level, and alloys commonly used.
| Metal
Stamps |
| Metal
stamp |
Minimum
percentage of pure metal |
Common
alloys** |
.925 Sterling Silver
Also: 925 Sterling, Sterling Silver* |
92.5% pure fine silver |
Usually copper |
| 10k
Also: 16, 417, 10KP* |
41.6% pure gold (10 parts
out of 24) |
Usually silver, copper, zinc,
and nickel |
| 14k
Also: 583, 585, 14KP* |
58.3% pure gold (14 parts out of 24) |
Usually silver, copper, zinc, and nickel |
| 18k
Also: 750, 18KP* |
75% pure gold (18 parts out
of 24) |
Usually silver, copper, nickel,
and palladium (for white gold) |
| 22k
Also: 916, 917* |
91.6% pure gold (22 parts out of 24) |
Usually silver and copper |
| 24k
Also: 999* |
100% pure gold (24 parts out
of 24) |
None |
| 900 Platinum
Also: 900 Plat, Plat 900, Pt900, 900Pt* |
90% pure platinum (900 parts out of 1,000) |
Ruthenium, rhodium, palladium, and other platinum
group metals |
| 950 Platinum
Also: PLAT, PT, 950 Plat, Plat 950, Pt950,
950Pt* |
95% pure platinum (950 parts
out of 1,000) |
Ruthenium, rhodium, palladium,
and other platinum group metals |
*Alternate
stamp or European hallmark
**May vary depending on desired color, such as white gold or rose gold
The term "karat" (usually abbreviated as "k," "K," or "Kt") refers to the relative purity of gold; pure gold is 24 karats. "Karat" is different from "carat," which is a metric unit of weight for gemstones.
In the context of gold jewelry, "plumb" is an old-fashioned term that means that the fineness or purity level of the gold content is precisely what is stamped on the item. The word "Plumb" or the letter P still sometimes follows the metal stamp (e.g., "14k Plumb," "14KP").
14k
White and Yellow Gold
14k white and yellow gold are popular and durable precious metals for jewelry.
Pure gold, which measures 24 karats, is too soft for use in jewelry. It is
alloyed with other metals--silver, copper, nickel, and zinc--to increase its
strength and durability. 14k white gold is not as white as platinum, as it is
made from a yellow metal that is turned white mostly through nickel alloys. Most
white gold items have a rhodium plating that wears away over time, so the metal
may look more yellow with age. Some people prefer the slightly warmer white of
white gold over platinum's grayer white.
18k White
and Yellow Gold
Due to recent advances in alloy technology, 18k gold is now generally considered
to be as durable as 14k gold. Because 18k gold has a higher percentage of pure
gold, it has a richer gold color than 14k gold and is slightly heavier. An 18k
gold setting can cost approximately 25% to 65% more than the same setting in 14k
gold.
Platinum
Platinum has great durability in holding precious stones. It is 35 times rarer
than gold. A platinum jewelry item can cost approximately 60% to 200% more than
the same setting in 18k gold, and 100% to 300% more than the same setting in 14k
gold
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